Clear skin…at a price
By Roshni Sengupta


Traditional notions of beauty and the social stigma attached to pimples have meant that for years manufacturers have enjoyed great sales figures among a ready-made clientele. These young women, now also men, are prepared to shell out exorbitant sums of money to rid themselves of these eruptions. 

Generally speaking, acne comes into being when hormones stimulate oil production or a genetic predisposition produces excess shedding of skin cells. Both oil and skin cells can clog follicles, thus creating an ideal climate for the bacterium Proponibacterium acnes to proliferate. The waste products of P. acnes are what eventually cause the inflammation we know as pimples. 

What is disturbing is that most acne treatments contain either a harsh anti-microbial like benzoyl peroxide or a chemical exfoliate like salicylic acid as their primary active ingredient. It is the mixture of detergents and solvents that remove the skin’s natural oils. Constant exposure to salicylic acid increases skin sensitivity to sunlight and alters skin structure allowing other chemicals to penetrate deeper into the skin and eventually the bloodstream. 

Used as a foaming agent, sodium lauryl sulphate denatures the skin, leaving it vulnerable to infection and dryness. Besides this, it also damages the eyes, is a penetration enhancer, and a potential carcinogen. Oxidized polyethylene or synthetic wax -- used commonly to coat fruits and vegetables in the form of E 914 -- is used as a thickener in these anti-acne products. 

An antioxidant and a chelating agent, disodium EDTA -- another ingredient -- is cytotoxic (kills cells) and genotoxic (damages cellular DNA) when contaminated with ethylene oxide and dioxane, both human carcinogens. In the environment, it acts like a magnet for heavy metals concentrating them in aquatic life and, via the water cycle, humans. 

Synthetic fragrance, thickeners, and stabilizers, namely behenyl alcohol, limonene, benzyl salicylate, linalool, and hexyl cinnamal, according to the EU Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products, are among the 24 most frequently reported contact allergens found in cosmetics. 

It has often been said that over-the-counter acne treatments are not cures. In fact, there is no known cure for acne. In teenagers, the condition is usually considered to be transient, settling down with hormones. In adults, causes include food allergies and stress, and in women, cyclical hormone changes and cosmetic use are usually to blame. Alternative methods of keeping acne at bay include regular washing of the face, enough sleep, regular moderate sun exposure, and a diet low in junk food.